References
- D. Langley Moore, The Child in Fashion (London: B. T. Batsford, 1953), pp. 52–53 and pl. xx; boy’s suit of jacket, waistcoat and trousers in light brown wool made by H. J. & D. Nicoll, c. 1860, museum number BATMC iv.24.4, Fashion Museum, Bath.
- Ibid., p. 52, plate xix and frontispiece. This tartan dress is also in the collections of the Fashion Museum, museum number BATMC iv.09.7, Fashion Museum, Bath.
- Langley Moore, The Child, p. 52.
- P. Cunnington and A. Buck, Children’s Costume in England 1300–1900 (London: A. & C. Black, 1965). See also A. Buck, Clothes and the Child: A Handbook of Children’s Dress in England 1500–1900 (Bedford: Ruth Bean Books, 1996).
- Langley Moore, The Child, p. 52.
- S. Chapman, ‘The innovating entrepreneurs in the British ready-made clothing industry’, Textile History, xxiv, no. 1 (1993), pp. 5–25; S. Levitt, The Victorians Unbuttoned (London: George Allen & Unwin, 1986), pp. 97–98, 225–27.
- E. P. Thompson, ‘Mayhew and the Morning Chronicle’, in E. P. Thompson and E. Yeo eds, The Unknown Mayhew: Selections from the ‘Morning Chronicle’, 1849–1850 (Harmondsworth: Penguin Books, 1984), pp. 9–55.
- A. Humpherys, Travels into the Poor Man’s Country: The Work of Henry Mayhew (Athens, Georgia: University of Georgia Press, 1977), pp. 20–21.
- A Nicoll catalogue dated 1935 is in Women’s Clothing and Millinery, 10 (20), John Johnson Collection of Printed Ephemera, the Bodleian Libraries, University of Oxford, Oxford. A. Adburgham, Shops and Shopping 1800–1914 (London: Barrie and Jenkins, 1989), pp. 210, 218, mentions Nicoll as advertising women’s ready-to-wear in the 1880s.
- There are two men’s garments by Nicoll in the collections of the Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall: museum numbers 1954.995 and 1955.42–3, both Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries; a boy’s evening ensemble in dark blue velvet made by Nicoll, c. 1890, museum number 1963.T161, is in the collections of the V&A Museum of Childhood, London.
- Personal communication, Elaine Uttley, Collections Assistant, Fashion Museum, Bath, email, 31 October 2012.
- F. Anderson, ‘Spinning the ephemeral with the sublime: modernity and landscape in men’s fashion textiles 1860–1900’, Fashion Theory, ix, no. 3 (2005), p. 287.
- The use of straps under the shoe to improve the fit of men’s trousers is illustrated in J. Couts, A Practical Guide for the Tailor’s Cutting-Room (Glasgow: Blackie & Sons, 1850), p. 126 and pl. iii.
- Based on the current sizing table for children’s clothes from Burda patterns (Online). Available from: http://www.burdastyle.com/downloads/SizeChart_Kids_Cms.pdf [Accessed: 1 September 2012]. The Nicoll suit is 4 cm wider than this in the waist and 9 cm wider in the chest, which indicates either a different approach to garment shaping or a different ideal body type.
- K. Baclawski, The Guide to Historic Costume (London: B. T. Batsford, 1995); Buck, Clothes and the Child; E. Ewing, History of Children’s Costume (London: B. T. Batsford, 1977); Langley Moore, The Child; C. Rose, Children’s Clothes Since 1750 (London: B. T. Batsford, 1989).
- C. Rose, ‘What was uniform about the fin-de-siècle sailor suit?’, Journal of Design History, xxiv, no. 2 (2011), pp. 105–24.
- Couts, A Practical Guide.
- Ibid., pl. i, pp. 11–12 (younger boys) and pl. ii, pp. 39–40 (older boys).
- Gentleman’s Magazine of Fashion, 1 March 1861, p. 1.
- ‘Zouave, n.’, OED Online. Available from: http://www.oed.com [Accessed: 3 January 2014].
- W. Irving, ‘Knickerbocker tales’, first published 1808, reissued in England in 1859. See Buck, Clothes and the Child, p. 120.
- L. Devere, Handbook of Practical Cutting on the Centre Point System (London: Simpkin, Marshall & Co., 1865).
- Ibid., p. 71 and pl. 23, figs 4 and 10.
- Ibid., p. 72 and pl. 24, figs 5 and 9.
- Ibid., p. 71.
- Cassell’s Household Guide: Being a Complete Encyclopaedia of Domestic and Social Economy, etc. (London: Cassell and Co., 1869–1871).
- Ibid., i, pp. 291–94, 331–34, 369–71.
- Ibid., iv, pp. 8–11, 20–21, 60–61, 68–69.
- J. B. Paoletti, ‘Clothes make the boy, 1869–1910’, Dress, ix (1983), pp. 16–20; J. B. Paoletti and C. L. Kregloh, ‘The children’s department’, in C. Kidwell and V. Steele eds, Men and Women: Dressing the Part (Washington, DC, and London: Smithsonian Institution and Booth-Clibborn Editions, 1989), pp. 22–41.
- Couts, A Practical Guide, pp. 11–12, 39–40 and pls i and ii.
- The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine (London: 1864), p. 382, cited in Buck, Clothes and the Child, p. 120.
- See, for example, Punch, 1 March 1862, reproduced in C. Walkley, The Way to Wear ’Em: 150 Years of Punch on Fashion (London: Peter Owen, 1985), p. 135.
- Ewing, History of Children’s Costume, pp. 89–90, 143.
- Cited in A. Davin, Growing up Poor: Home, School and Street in London, 1870–1914 (London: Rivers Oram, 1996), p. 4.
- The effect of nutrition on growth patterns is discussed in R. Floud, K. Wachter and A. Gregory, Height, Health and History: Nutritional Status in the United Kingdom, 1750–1980 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1990).
- Elementary schoolchildren were not surveyed systematically until 1907; Floud, Wachter and Gregory, Height, Health and History, pp. 163–79.
- Ibid., pp. 181–83 and table 4.6.
- In 2012 the Burda pattern chart identified a boy of this height as aged nine. Available from: http://www.burdastyle.com/downloads/SizeChart_Kids_Cms.pdf [Accessed: 1 September 2012].
- A sample of retail documents dated c. 1840–1876 are reproduced with editorial annotations in C. Rose, ‘Buying and selling clothes’, in C. Rose and V. Richmond eds, Clothing, Society and Culture in Nineteenth-Century England, i (London: Pickering & Chatto, 2011), pp. 1–72.
- The Boy’s Illustrated Magazine, July 1864, Prospectuses of Journals, 7 (28), John Johnson Collection of Printed Ephemera, the Bodleian Libraries, University of Oxford.
- B. Joseph & Co., ‘Boys’ Clothing and Outfitting House, 150 Regent Street’ (unnumbered); ‘Knicker-bocker Suits’ (unnumbered); A. Lynes, ‘To Mothers’ (document no. 430); ‘A Lynes’s One Pound Overcoat’ (document no. 11a); ‘A Lynes’ Albert Paletot £1’ (document no. 10a); H. J. & D. Nicoll, ‘Nicoll’s Lacerna’ (unnumbered); Samuel Brothers, ‘Juvenile Suits’ (document no. 336); ‘Juvenile Clothing’ (document no. 78a); ‘The Sydenham Construction of Youth’s Clothing’ (document no. 334). All documents in Trade Card Album, non-accessioned Printed Ephemera Collections, Museum of London.
- A. Lynes, ‘A Lynes’s One Pound Overcoat’ (document no. 11a), Trade Card Album, non- accessioned Printed Ephemera Collections, Museum of London. Prince Arthur was born in 1850 and Prince Leopold in 1853; they would have been appropriate ages to wear the styles featured around 1860–1865. For the marketing of garments by associating them with Prince Albert Victor of Wales during the 1870s and 1880s, see C. Breward, The Hidden Consumer: Masculinities, Fashion and City Life 1860–1914 (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1999), pp. 66–75.
- H. J. & D. Nicoll, ‘Nicoll’s Lacerna’ (unnumbered), Trade Card Album, non-accessioned Printed Ephemera Collections, Museum of London.
- R. D. Baxter, National Income: The United Kingdom (London: Macmillan, 1868), pp. 64–65. Income tax, sometimes seen as an indicator of middle-class status, was only payable on incomes over £100 a year.
- B. Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory, 1660–1800 (Basingstoke: Macmillan, 1997), pp. 43–71.
- Chapman, ‘The innovating entrepreneurs’, pp. 5–12.
- Sarah Levitt has identified a clothing factory using sewing machines in 1855. S. Levitt, ‘Cheap mass-produced men’s clothing in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries’, Textile History, xx, no. 2 (1991), p. 185.
- Chapman, ‘The innovating entrepreneurs’, p. 13. For the adoption of technology in Leeds factories, see K. Honeyman, Well Suited: A History of the Leeds Clothing Industry 1850–1990 (Oxford: Oxford University Press and Pasold Research Fund, 2000), pp. 107–11.
- ‘Nicolls and Regent Street’ (London: not dated, c. 1935), p. 3, in Women’s Clothes and Millinery, 1 (49), John Johnson Collection of Printed Ephemera, the Bodleian Libraries, University of Oxford.
- Honeyman, Well Suited, pp. 21–22.
- E. Blackburn, A Fair Day’s Wage for a Fair Day’s Work? Sweated Labour and the Origins of Minimum Wage Legislation in Britain (Aldershot: Ashgate, 2007), pp. 23–31.
- P. Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1994, first published 1981), pp. 68–69; F. Chenoune, A History of Men’s Fashion (Paris: Flammarion, 1993), p. 66.
- Chenoune, A History of Men’s Fashion, pp. 66–68.
- A. Smith, The Adventures of Mr Ledbury, cited in ‘Paletot, n.’, OED Online. Available from: http://www.oed.com [Accessed: 1 September 2012].
- J. Swain & Co. of 379 Oxford Street, London, registered a ‘Syrian Paletot’ with an advertising flyer in 1847: ‘Registered Syrian Paletot’, 1847, Board of Trade 45/1195, The National Archives (TNA), London.
- H. J. & D. Nicoll design registration for man’s ‘Paletot’ coat, 1848, Board of Trade 45/1389, TNA.
- ‘View of Calcutta’, not dated, c. 1850, in Men’s Clothes, 2 (19b), John Johnson Collection of Printed Ephemera, the Bodleian Libraries, University of Oxford.
- C. Rose, ‘Advertising ready-made style: the Stationers’ Hall archive’, Textile History, xl, no. 2 (2009), p. 189 and n. 15.
- Registrations of garments, 1873, Board of Trade 43/13/268946–75; Board of Trade 43/13/274126–39; Board of Trade 43/13/278300–14, TNA. See C. Rose, ‘“The novelty consists in the ornamental design”: design innovation in mass-produced boys’ clothing, 1840–1900’, Textile History, xxxviii, no. 1 (2007), p. 7.
- A handful of John Barran and Son garments from 1898 are in the collection of the Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall, Manchester City Galleries. They have been identified through the registered design numbers stamped on them in soluble ink. See C. Rose, Making, Selling and Wearing Boys’ Clothes in Late-Victorian England (Farnham: Ashgate, 2010), pp. 97–99.
- The item is a woman’s ‘zouave’ jacket, now in the collection of the Museum of London. See E. Ehrman, ‘Clothing a world city 1830–60’, in C. Breward, E. Ehrman and C. Evans eds, The London Look: Fashion from Street to Catwalk (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2004), fig. 40, p. 38.
- T. R. Nevett, Advertising in Britain: A History (London: Heinemann, 1982), p. 67; A. Godley, ‘The development of the clothing industry: technology and fashion’, Textile History, xxviii, no. 1 (1997), p. 6.
- Chapman, ‘The innovating entrepreneurs’, p. 22; Godley, ‘The development of the clothing industry’, p. 6; Rose, ‘Buying and selling clothes’, pp. liii–lvi, 1–24.
- ‘Nicolls and Regent Street’, p. 3.
- As Donald Nicoll has no entry in the Dictionary of National Biography, this information has been gleaned from nineteenth-century newspapers. See the obituary in Morning Post, 9 September 1891.
- ‘The state liveries, &c for the Lord Mayor elect’, Standard, 1 November 1850.
- ‘Volunteer Rifle Corps’, Standard, 3 February 1852.
- The letters were published on 11, 14 and 18 December 1849. See Thompson and Yeo eds, The Unknown Mayhew, pp. 217–73, 581.
- Ibid., p. 266.
- Ibid., p. 267.
- The interviews were published on 6, 9, 13, 16, 20 and 23 November 1849; Thompson and Yeo eds, The Unknown Mayhew, pp. 137–216, 581.
- Charles Kingsley’s polemic, Cheap Clothes and Nasty, was published in January 1850. See Thompson, ‘Mayhew and the Morning Chronicle’, pp. 25–34; J. Chimes, ‘“Wanted: 1000 spirited young milliners”: the Fund for Promoting Female Emigration’, in B. Harris ed., Famine and Fashion: Needlewomen in the Nineteenth Century (Aldershot: Ashgate, 2005), pp. 229–42; Blackburn, A Fair Day’s Wage, pp. 29–32.
- Humpherys, Travels into the Poor Man’s Country, p. 20.
- ‘The tailors’ sweating system’, Morning Chronicle, 29 March 1850.
- Thompson, ‘Mayhew and the Morning Chronicle’, pp. 42–43.
- ‘The exhibitors of 1851: Messrs. Nicoll’s establishment’, Morning Chronicle, 4 October 1850.
- Thompson, ‘Mayhew and the Morning Chronicle’, p. 40.
- Ibid., p. 39.
- H. Mayhew, Labour and the Poor: Report of the Speech of Henry Mayhew, Esq., and the Evidence Adduced at a Public Meeting held at St Martin’s Hall, Long Acre, Monday Evening, October 28, 1850 … (London: Printed for the Committee, 1850), cited in Thompson, ‘Mayhew and the Morning Chronicle’, p. 40.
- Humpherys, Travels into the Poor Man’s Country, p. 21.
- These parts were published as a bound volume in late 1851, and republished with alterations and additions in 1861. Thompson, ‘Mayhew and the Morning Chronicle’, p. 45.
- ‘Answers to correspondents’, no. 20, 26 April 1851, cited in E. Yeo, ‘Mayhew as a social investigator’, in Thompson and Yeo eds, The Unknown Mayhew, p. 89.
- J. Fisher Murray, The World of London, i (London: Richard Bentley, 1845), p. 171, cited in Ehrman, ‘Clothing a world city’, p. 34.
- Breward, The Hidden Consumer, pp. 28–29.
- J. Jefferys, Retail Trading in Britain 1850–1950 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1954), p. 304.