References
- James Laver, A History of English Costume (1963 ); Quentin Bell, On Human Finery (1976).
- Anon., Bristol in 1898: Contemporary Biographies (1898).
- Percy Redfern, The New History of the Cooperative Wholesale Society (1938), p. 374.
- Frederick Engels, The Condition of the Working Class in England in 1845 (1982 ed.), p. 99.
- I am grateful to Dr Peter Davies of the Prison Service Museum for this information.
- Flora Thompson, Lark Rise to Candleford (1945 ), p. 48.
- J. B. Pick, The Pick Knitwear Story, 1856-1956 (1956), pp. 8–12.
- Charles Dickens, Sketches by Boz (1837 ), Chapter VI.
- Charles Shaw, When I was a Child (1903 ), p. 92.
- Arnold Grainger, ‘A History of the Boot and Shoe Industry in Leicester’ British Boot and Shoe Industry Journal, March 1965, p. 9.
- A Lady, Afternoons in the Manchester Slums (1887 ), p. 8.
- I am grateful to the curator of the Greater Manchester Police Museum for this information.
- A Major of Today, Clothes and the Man (1900 ), p. 45.
- See registered designs: Ace of Clubs tie BT43/13 334086 (1879 ); Firework pattern tie, BT43/12 234140 (1869); Leg-shaped tie, BT50 56976 (1886).
- Anon., How to Dress, or the Etiquette of the Toilette (1876 ), p. 11.
- Anon., Directions for cutting out and making articles of clothing (1854 ), p. 7.
- George Augustus Sala, Twice Around the Clock (1862 ), pp. 83–86.
- All statistics taken from James A. Schmeichen, Sweated Industries and Sweated Labour: The London clothing trades, 1860-1914 (1984), pp. 13ff.
- The 1694 Inventory of Joel Jelson, General Merchant of Barton Regis near Bristol, lists among his stock-in-trade petticoats, drawers, neckcloths, caps, shirts, hosiery, hats and shoes. I am grateful to Mr and Mrs E. George for this information from the Bristol Record Office.
- E. P. Thompson and Eileen Yeo (eds), The Unknown May hew: Selections from the Morning Chronicle, 1849-50 (1973), p. 143.
- Copies in the British Library, the Guildhall Library and Platt Hall Gallery of English Costume, Manchester City Art Galleries.
- Moses and Son, The Past, the Present and the Future (c. 1846 ), p. 3.
- Moses and Son, The Commercial Cornucopia (1855 ), p. 3.
- The Past, the Present and the Future, p. 8.
- A Cavalry Officer, The Whole Art of Dress (1830 ), pp. 1, 7.
- David Ryott, John Barrans of Leeds, 1851–1951 (1951) 5 p. 20.
- Anon., Bristol and Its Environs (1875 ), p. 210.
- British Parliamentary Papers, Reports of the Royal Commission on Children’s Employment in Trades and Manufactures, 1843 (430), vol. XII; 1843 (432), vol. XIV; 1843 (432), vol. XV. Reports of the Royal Commission on Children’s Employment, 1863 (3710), vol. XVII; 1864 (3414), vol. XXII; 1865 (3548), vol. XX; 1866 (3678), vol. XXIV; 1867 (3796), vol. XVI. Reports of the House of Lords Select Committee on the Sweating System, 1888 (361) vol. XX; 1888 (448), vol. XXI; 1889 (165), vol. XIII; 1889 (331), vol. XIV; 1890 (169), vol. XVII.
- Anon., Greater Bristol by Lesser Columbus (1893 ), p. 182.
- Anon., Houlston’s Guide to the Trade: no 20, the Housemaid (N.D.), p. 25.
- James D. Burn, Commercial Enterprise and Social Progress (1858 ), pp. 134–36.
- Ibid.
- Anon., ‘Female Employments in the South of Ireland’, The English Woman’s Journal, 1 (July 1858 ), p. 332.
- E. E. Perkins, Treatise on Haberdashery andHosiery, first published as The Lady's Shopping Manual and Mercery Album by T. Hurst (1834 ); 9th edition (1874).
- Ibid., pp. 46, 101.
- Elastic Mourning Band, BT45 1136 (1847 ); Jointed lever buckle, BT42 671 (1841); Improved fastener, BT42 659 (1841); Double buckle for garters, BT45 403 (1845); Spring bolt foot straps, BT42 786 (1841); Shirt Front, BT45 1439 (1848); Collar, BT45 133 (1844); Braces, BT45 1536 (1848); Braces, BT45 2442 (1850); Braces, BT45 2699 (1851); Collar and Stock, BT45 651 (1846); Stock, BT45 1072 (1847); Stock, BT45 1786 (1849); Stock, BT45 1847 (1849); Braces and trouser suspender, BT45 3488 (1853).
- Manchester Guardian, 18 January 1846, Welch Margetson v. Flusheim and Hesse.
- The Poncho Wrapper, BT45 1618 (1848 ); the University Jacket, BT45 1826 (1849); the Equestrian or Driving Poncho, BT45 2159 (1850).
- Further details about the firm can be found in Welch Margetson’s Centenary Booklet (1933).
- Platt Hall Gallery of English Costume, map of London, 1840 -50,1941.41 ; Museum of London, map of London, 1848, 35.89/2; another from 1851, 61.112; Victoria and Albert Museum, ‘Public Buildings’, 1851, T.83–1972; Derby Winner, 1867, T.84-1972; ‘The Royal Exchange’ late nineteenth century, T.37-1981; nineteenth-century copper plate for Derby Winners handkerchief, T.35-1981.
- Samples of Welch Margetson garments in four museum collections: Platt Hall Gallery of English Costume, 4 shirts c. 1872, 1973.21/4, and waistcoat, 1838–50, 1971. 112; Museum of London, 2 shirts, 1870-90, 72.236/1-2, and stock, 1830-50, 77.94/3; Victoria and Albert Museum, waistcoat, c. 1850, T.293-1973, and 5 shirts, early twentieth century T.207-11-1972. The V. and A. collection also includes 13 catalogues, 1908-30, T.80-92-1981. Gunnersbury Park Museum in West London has recently purchased a waistcoat and jacket, probably made by Welch Margetson in the 1840s.
- Daniel Pusely, The Commercial Companion (1858 ), p. 220.
- Anon., Greater Bristol by Lesser Columbus, pp. 187–88.
- Sir Montague Burton, ‘Multiple Clothing—Its Difficulties and Developments’, Menswear, 6 February 1932, pp. 37–38
- Platt Hall Gallery of English Costume, 1984. 608.
- I am grateful to Mr Stanley Burton for information about Burton’s Tailoring.
- Goodwill In Industry (1925 ), p. 66.
- Manager’s Guide, Montague Burton, 4th edn (1932 ), p. 37.
- Alan Mansfield and Phillis Cunnington, Handbook of English Costume in the 20th Century, 1900 –1950 (1973), p. 241.
- Sir Montague Burton op. cit.
- Nik Cohn, Today There Are No Gentlemen (1971 ), p. 14.