Cheap Mass-Produced Men's Clothing in the Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Centuries

References

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• I am grateful to Dr Peter Davies of the Prison Service Museum for this information.
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• I am grateful to the curator of the Greater Manchester Police Museum for this information.
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• See registered designs: Ace of Clubs tie BT43/13 334086 (1879 ); Firework pattern tie, BT43/12 234140 (1869); Leg-shaped tie, BT50 56976 (1886).
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• All statistics taken from James A. Schmeichen, Sweated Industries and Sweated Labour: The London clothing trades, 1860-1914 (1984), pp. 13ff.
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• The 1694 Inventory of Joel Jelson, General Merchant of Barton Regis near Bristol, lists among his stock-in-trade petticoats, drawers, neckcloths, caps, shirts, hosiery, hats and shoes. I am grateful to Mr and Mrs E. George for this information from the Bristol Record Office.
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• The Past, the Present and the Future, p. 8.
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• British Parliamentary Papers, Reports of the Royal Commission on Children’s Employment in Trades and Manufactures, 1843 (430), vol. XII; 1843 (432), vol. XIV; 1843 (432), vol. XV. Reports of the Royal Commission on Children’s Employment, 1863 (3710), vol. XVII; 1864 (3414), vol. XXII; 1865 (3548), vol. XX; 1866 (3678), vol. XXIV; 1867 (3796), vol. XVI. Reports of the House of Lords Select Committee on the Sweating System, 1888 (361) vol. XX; 1888 (448), vol. XXI; 1889 (165), vol. XIII; 1889 (331), vol. XIV; 1890 (169), vol. XVII.
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• Anon., Greater Bristol by Lesser Columbus (1893 ), p. 182.
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• Anon., Houlston’s Guide to the Trade: no 20, the Housemaid (N.D.), p. 25.
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• James D. Burn, Commercial Enterprise and Social Progress (1858 ), pp. 134–36.
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• Ibid.
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• Anon., ‘Female Employments in the South of Ireland’, The English Woman’s Journal, 1 (July 1858 ), p. 332.
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• E. E. Perkins, Treatise on Haberdashery andHosiery, first published as The Lady's Shopping Manual and Mercery Album by T. Hurst (1834 ); 9th edition (1874).
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• Ibid., pp. 46, 101.
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• Elastic Mourning Band, BT45 1136 (1847 ); Jointed lever buckle, BT42 671 (1841); Improved fastener, BT42 659 (1841); Double buckle for garters, BT45 403 (1845); Spring bolt foot straps, BT42 786 (1841); Shirt Front, BT45 1439 (1848); Collar, BT45 133 (1844); Braces, BT45 1536 (1848); Braces, BT45 2442 (1850); Braces, BT45 2699 (1851); Collar and Stock, BT45 651 (1846); Stock, BT45 1072 (1847); Stock, BT45 1786 (1849); Stock, BT45 1847 (1849); Braces and trouser suspender, BT45 3488 (1853).
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• Manchester Guardian, 18 January 1846, Welch Margetson v. Flusheim and Hesse.
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• The Poncho Wrapper, BT45 1618 (1848 ); the University Jacket, BT45 1826 (1849); the Equestrian or Driving Poncho, BT45 2159 (1850).
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• Further details about the firm can be found in Welch Margetson’s Centenary Booklet (1933).
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• Platt Hall Gallery of English Costume, map of London, 1840 -50,1941.41 ; Museum of London, map of London, 1848, 35.89/2; another from 1851, 61.112; Victoria and Albert Museum, ‘Public Buildings’, 1851, T.83–1972; Derby Winner, 1867, T.84-1972; ‘The Royal Exchange’ late nineteenth century, T.37-1981; nineteenth-century copper plate for Derby Winners handkerchief, T.35-1981.
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• Samples of Welch Margetson garments in four museum collections: Platt Hall Gallery of English Costume, 4 shirts c. 1872, 1973.21/4, and waistcoat, 1838–50, 1971. 112; Museum of London, 2 shirts, 1870-90, 72.236/1-2, and stock, 1830-50, 77.94/3; Victoria and Albert Museum, waistcoat, c. 1850, T.293-1973, and 5 shirts, early twentieth century T.207-11-1972. The V. and A. collection also includes 13 catalogues, 1908-30, T.80-92-1981. Gunnersbury Park Museum in West London has recently purchased a waistcoat and jacket, probably made by Welch Margetson in the 1840s.
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• Daniel Pusely, The Commercial Companion (1858 ), p. 220.
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• Platt Hall Gallery of English Costume, 1984. 608.
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• I am grateful to Mr Stanley Burton for information about Burton’s Tailoring.
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• Alan Mansfield and Phillis Cunnington, Handbook of English Costume in the 20th Century, 1900 –1950 (1973), p. 241.
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• Sir Montague Burton op. cit.
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• Nik Cohn, Today There Are No Gentlemen (1971 ), p. 14.
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