23
Views
8
CrossRef citations to date
0
Altmetric
Review

Cutaneous aging: a review of the process and topical therapies

&
Pages 753-761 | Published online: 10 Jan 2014

References

  • US Census. US Department of Commerce, Economics and Statistics Administration (2000).
  • Kligman AM, Kligman LH. Photoaging. In: Fitzpatrick’s Dermatology in General Medicine (5th Edition) Freedberg IM, Eisen AZ, Wolf K et al. (Eds). McGraw-Hill, NY, USA 1697–1706 (1999).
  • Kadunce DP, Burr R, Gress R et al. Cigarette smoking: risk factor for premature facial wrinkling. Ann. Intern. Med.114, 840–844 (1991).
  • Neerken S, Lucassen GW, Bisschop MA et al. Characterization of age-related effects in human skin: a comparative study that applies confocal laser scanning microscopy and optical coherence tomography. J. Biomed. Opt.9(2), 274–281 (2004).
  • Sandby-Moller J, Poulsen T, Wulf HC. Epidermal thickness at different body sites: relationship to age, gender, pigmentation, blood content, skin type and smoking habits. Acta Derm. Venereol.83(6), 410–413 (2003).
  • El-Domyati M, Attia S, Saleh F et al. Intrinsic aging vs. photoaging: a comparative histopathological, immunohistochemical, and ultrastructural study of skin. Exp. Dermatol.11(5), 398–405 (2002).
  • Ghadially R, Brown BE, Sequiera-Martin SM, Fiengold KR, Elias PM. The aged epidermal permeability barrier. Structural, functional, and lipid biochemical abnormalities in humans and a senescent murine model. J. Clin. Invest.95(5), 2281–2290 (1995).
  • Yamamura T, Tezuka T. Change in sphingomyelinase activity in human epidermis during aging. J. Dermatol. Sci.1(2), 79–83 (1990).
  • Ghadially R, Brown BE, Hanley K et al. Decreased epidermal lipid synthesis accounts for altered barrier function in aged mice. J. Invest. Dermatol.106(5), 1064–1069 (1996).
  • Rogers J, Harding C, Mayo A et al. Stratum corneum lipids: the effect of ageing and the seasons. Arch. Dermatol. Res.288(12) 765–770 (1996).
  • Hayashi N, Togawa K, Yanagisawa M, et al. Effect of sunlight exposure on skin surface lipids and urate. Exp. Dermatol.12(Suppl. 2), 13–17 (2003).
  • Craven NM, Watson RE, Jones CJ et al. Clinical features of photodamaged human skin are associated with a reduction in collagen VII. Br. J. Dermatol.137(3), 344–350 (1997).
  • Vazquez F, Palacios S, Areman N et al. Changes of the basement membrane and type IV collagen in human skin during aging. Maturitas25(3), 209–215 (1996).
  • De Rigal J, Escoffier C, Querleux B et al. Assessment of aging of the human skin by in vivo ultrasonic imaging. J. Invest. Dermatol.93, 621 (1989).
  • El-Domyati M, Attia S, Seleh F et al. Intrinsic aging vs. photaging: a comparative histopathological, immunohistochenical, and ultrastructural study of the skin. Exp. Dermatol.11(5), 398–405 (2002).
  • Stanulis-Praeger BM, Gilchrest B. Growth factor responsiveness declines during adulthood for human skin-derived cells. Mech. Ageing Dev.35(2), 185–189 (1986).
  • Bleker E, Schachtscabel DO. Decreased stimulation of glycosaminoglycan synthesis in cultured human skin fibroblasts within the scope of in vitro aging caused by IL-1. Z. Gerontol.32(2), 124–130 (1999).
  • Shuster S, Black MM, McVitie E. The influence of age and sex on skin thickness, skin collagen and density. Br. J. Dermatol.93, 639–643 (1975).
  • Stanulis-Praeger, Betzabe, Gilchrest B. Growth factor responsiveness declines during adulthood for human skin-derived cells. Mech. Ageing Dev.35(2), 185–189 (1986).
  • Varani J, Dame MK, Rittie L et al. Decreased collagen production in chronically aged skin. Am. J. Pathol.168, 1861–1868 (2006).
  • Ghersetich I, Lotti T, Campanile G. Hyaluronic acid in cutaneous intrinsic aging. Int. J. Dermatol.33(2) 119–122 (1994).
  • Willen MD, Sorrell JM, Lekan CC, et al. Patterns of glycosaminoglycan/proteoglycan immunostaining in human skin during aging. J. Invest. Dermatol.96(6), 968–974 (1991).
  • Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Hahn PJ et al. Chronic sun exposure alters both the content and distribution of dermal glycosaminoglycans. Br. J. Dermatol.135(2), 255–262 (1996).
  • Contet-Audonneau J, Jeanmoire C, Pauly G. A histologic study of wrinkle structures: comparison between sunexposed areas of the face, with or without wrinkles, and sun-protected areas. Br. J. Dermatol.140(6), 1038–1047 (1999).
  • Fodil-Bourahla I, Drubais I, Robert L. The effect of in vitro aging on the biosynthesis of glycosaminoglycans by human skin fibroblasts. Modulation by the elastin laminin receptor. Mech. Ageing Dev.106(3), 241–260 (1999).
  • Carrino D, Onnerfjors P, Sandy J et al. Age-related changes in the proteoglycans of human skin. J. Biol. Chem.278(19), 17566–17572 (2003).
  • Kligman AM. Zheng P. Lavker RM. The anatomy and pathogenesis of wrinkles. Br. J. Dermatol.113(1), 37–42 (1985).
  • Baumann L. How to prevent photoaging? J. Invest. Dermatol.125(4), xii–xiii (2005).
  • Colven RM, Pinnell SR. Topical vitamin C in aging. Clin. Dermatol.14, 227–234 (1996).
  • Rose RC, Bode AM. Biology of radical scavengers: an evaluation of ascorbate. FASEB J.7, 1135–1142 (1993).
  • Beyer RE. The role of ascorbate in antioxidant protection of biomembranes: Interaction of vitamin E and coenzyme Q. Arch. Bioenerg. Biomem.26, 349–358 (1994).
  • Chan AC. Partners in defense, vitamin E and vitamin C. Can. J. Physiol. Pharmacol.71, 725–731 (1993).
  • Holck DEE, Ng JD. Facial skin rejuvenation. Curr. Opin. Ophthalmol.14, 246–252 (2003).
  • Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatol. Surg.28, 231–236 (2002).
  • Lin FH, Lin JY, Gupta RD, et al. Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. J. Invest. Dermatol.125, 826–832 (2005).
  • Thiele JJ. Oxidative targets in the stratum corneum. A new basis for antioxidative strategies. Skin Pharmacol. Appl. Skin Physiol.14, 87–91 (2001).
  • Wallace G, Fry SC. Phenolic components of the plant cell wall. Int. Rev. Cytol.151, 229–267 (1994).
  • Saija A, Tomaino A, Trombetta D et al.In vitro and in vivo evaluation of caffeic and ferulic acids as topical photoprotectiveagents. Int. J. Pharm.199, 39–47 (2000).
  • Hoppe U, Bergemann J, Diembeck W et al. Coenzyme Q10, a cutaneous antioxidant and energizer. Biofactors9, 371–378 (1999).
  • Fuller B, Smith D, Howerton A et al. Anti-inflammatory effects of CoQ10 and colorless carotenoids. J. Cosmet. Dermatol.5, 303–308 (2006).
  • Narain NR, Persaud I, Russell KJ et al. Coenzyme Q10: a novel bcl-2 drug target for the treatment of melanoma. Proc. Am. Assoc. Cancer Res.47, A791 (2006).
  • Mukhtar H, Katiyar SK, Agarwal R. Green tea and skin–anticarcinogenic effects. J. Invest. Dermatol.102, 3–7 (1994).
  • Stratton SP, Dorr RT, Alberts DS. The state-of-the-art in chemoprevention of skin cancer. Eur. J. Cancer36, 1292–1297 (2000).
  • Katiyar SK, Ahmad N, Mukhtar H. Green tea and skin. Arch. Dermatol.136, 989–994 (2000).
  • Hsu S, Bollag WB, Lewis J et al. Green tea polyphenols induce differentiation and proliferation in epidermal keratinocytes. J. Pharmacol. Exp. Ther.306, 29–34 (2003).
  • Kim J, Hwang JS, Cho YK et al. Protective effects of (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate on UVA- and UVB-induced skin damage. Skin Pharmacol. Appl. Skin Physiol.14, 1119 (2001).
  • Dvorakova K, Dorr RT, Valcic S et al. Pharmacokinetics of the green tea derivative, EGCG, by the topical route of administration in mouse and human skin. Cancer Chemother. Pharmacol.43, 331–335 (1999).
  • Elmets CA, Singh D, Tubesing K et al. Cutaneous photoprotection from ultraviolet injury by green tea polyphenols. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol.44, 425–432 (2001).
  • Hsu S. Green tea and the skin. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol.52, 1049–1059 (2005).
  • McDaniel DH, Neudecker BA, Dinardo JC et al. Clinical efficacy assessment in photodamaged skin of 0.5% and 1.0% idebenone. J. Cosm. Derm.4, 167–173 (2005).
  • McDaniel DH, Neudecker BA, Dinardo JC et al. Idebenone: a new antioxidant – part I. A relative assessment of oxidative stress protection capacity compared to commonly known antioxidants. J. Cosm. Derm.4, 10–17 (2005).
  • Lin JY, Lin FH, Burch JA et al. α lipoic acid is in effective as a topical antioxidant for photoprotection of skin. J. Invest. Dermatol.123(5), 996–998 (2004).
  • Loffelhardt S, Bonaventura C, Locher M, Borbe HO, Bisswanger H. Interaction of α-lipoic acid enantiomers and homologues with the enzyme components of the mammalian pyruvate dehydrogenase complex. Biochem. Pharmacol.50, 637–646 (1995).
  • Tsuji-Naito K, Hatani T, Okada T et al. Modulating effects of a novel skin lightening agent. Bioorg. Med. Chem.15(5), 1967–1975 (2007).
  • Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br. J. Dermatol.143, 524–531 (2000).
  • Gensler HL, Williams T, Huang AC, Jacobson EL. Oral niacin prevents photocarcinogenesis and photoimmunosuppresion in mice. Nutr. Cancer34, 36–41 (1999).
  • Bernstein EF, Uitto J. Connective tissue alterations in photoaged skin and effects of α hydroxy acids. Geriatr. Dermatol.3(Suppl. A), 7A–18A (1995).
  • Kim SJ, Won YH. The effect of glycolic acid on cultured human fibroblasts: cell proliferative effect and increased collagen synthesis. J. Dermatol.25, 858–859 (1998).
  • Kim SJ, Park JH, Kim DH et al. Increased in vivo collagen synthesis and in vitro cell proliferative effect of glycolic acid. Dermatol. Surg.24, 1054–1058 (1998).
  • Rona C, Vailati F, Berardesca E. The cosmetic treatment of wrinkles. J. Cosm. Dermatol.3, 26–34 (2004).
  • Bergfeld WF, Remzi BK, Green B et al. An evaluation of the gluconolactone sensitive skin care products. Poster Presented at: 56th Annual Meeting of the Academy of Dermatology, FL, USA, 27 February–4 March 1998.
  • Green B, Tseng C, Wildnauer R et al. Safety and efficacy of a gluconolactone (polyhydroxy acid) containing regimen on sensitive skin and photodamage following controlled consumer use. Poster presented at: 57th Annual Meeting of the Academy of Dermatology, LA, USA, 19–24 March 1999.
  • Grimes P, Edison BL, Green BA et al. Evaluation of inherent differences in ethnic skin types and their response to topical polyhyrdroxy acid (PHA) use. Poster presented at: 59th Annual Meeting of the Academy of Dermatology, WA, USA, 3–6 March 2001.
  • Singh M, Griffiths CEM. The use of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Dermatol. Ther.19, 297–305 (2006).
  • Kafi R, Kwak HS, Schumacher WE et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch. Dermatol.143(5), 606–612 (2007).
  • Kligman AM, Grove GL, Hirose R et al. Topical tretinoin for photoaged skin. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol.15, 836–859 (1986).
  • Griffiths CEM, Russman A, Majmudar G et al. restoration of collagen formation in photodamaged human skin by tretinoin (retinoic acid). N. Engl. J. Med.329, 530–535 (1993).
  • Fisher GJ, Wang ZQ, Datt SC et al. Pathophysiology of premature skin aging induced by ultraviolet light. N. Engl. J. Med.337, 1419–1428 (1997).
  • Watson REB, Craven NM, Kang S et al. A short-term screening protocol, using fibrillin-1 as a reporter molecule, for photoaging repair agents. J. Invest. Dermatol.116, 672–678 (2001).
  • Varani J, Fisher GJ, Griffiths CEM et al. All trans retinoic acid (RA) stimulates events in organ cultured human skin that underlie repair: adult skin from sun protected and sun exposed sites responds in identical manner to RA while neonatal foreskin responds differently. J. Clin. Invest.94, 1747–1756 (1994).
  • Kafi R, Kwak HSR, Schumacher WE et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch. Dermatol.143, 606–612 (2007).
  • Weinstein GD, Nigra TP, Pochi PE et al. Topical tretinoin for the treatment of photodamaged skin. Arch. Dermatol.127, 659–665 (1991).
  • Olsen EA, Katz I, Levine N et al. Tretinoin cream: new therapy for photodamaged skin. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol.26, 215–224 (1992).
  • Orlow SJ, Chakraborty AK, Pawelek JM. Retinoic acid is a potent inhibitor of inducible pigmentation in murine and hamster melanoma cell lines. J. Invest. Dermatol.94, 461–464 (1990).
  • Chandraratna RA. Tazarotene: the first receptor-selective topical retinoid for the treatment of psoriasis. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol.37, S12–S17 (1997).
  • Sefton J, Kligman AM, Kopper SC, et al. Photodamage pilot study: a double-blind, vehicle controlled study to assess the efficacy and safety of tazarotene 0.1% gel. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol.43, 656–663 (2000).
  • Kang S, Leyden JJ, Lowe NJ et al. Tazarotene cream for the treatment of facial photodamage. Arch. Dermatol.137, 1597–1604 (2001).
  • Phillips TJ, Gottlieb AB, Leyden JJ et al. Efficacy of 0.1% tazarotene cream for the treatment of photodamage. Arch. Dermatol.138, 1486–1493 (2002).
  • Kang S, Goldfarb MT. Weiss J et al. Assessment of adapalene gel for the treatment of actinic keratoses and lentigines: a randomized trial. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol.49, 83–90 (2003).
  • Simeon A, Emonard H, Hornebeck W et al. The tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2+ stimulates matrix metalloproteinase-2 expression by fibroblast cultures. Life Sci.67, 2257–2265 (2000).
  • Gomez DE, Alonso DF, Yoshiji H et al. Tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases: structure, regulation, and biological functions. Eur. J.Cell Biol.74, 111–122 (1997).
  • Kathari VM, Saarialho-Kere U. Matrix metalloproteinases in skin. Exp. Dermatol.6, 199–213 (1997).
  • Maquart FX, Pickart L, Laurent M et al. Stimulation of collagen synthesis in fibroblast cultures by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2+. FEBS Lett.238, 343–346 (1988).
  • Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G et al. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci.24, 303–310 (2002).
  • Robinson LR, Fitzgerald NC, Doughty DG et al. Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci.27, 155–160 (2005).
  • Draelos ZD. From Proteins to Peptides – What They Mean To The Dermatologist US Dermatology Review. December 2005. (2006).
  • Rothe M, Falanga V. Growth factors. Their biology and promise in dermatologic diseases and tissue repair. Arch. Dermatol.125, 1390–1398 (1989).
  • Kligman AM. Why cosmeceuticals? Cosmet. Toiletries108, 373–378 (1993).
  • Vermeer BJ, Gilchrest BA. Cosmeceuticals: a proposal for rational definition, evaluation, and regulations. Arch. Dermatol.132, 337–340 (1996).
  • Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Reversal of photodamage with topical growth factors: a pilot study. J. Cosmet. Laser Ther.5, 25–34 (2003).
  • Fisher GJ, Kang S, Varani J et al. Mechanisms of photoaging and chronological skin aging. Arch. Dermatol.138, 1462–1470 (2002).
  • Ehrlich M, Rao J, Pabby A, Goldman MP. Improvement in the appearance of wrinkles with topical transforming growth factor 1 and L-ascorbic acid. Dermatol. Surg.32, 618–625 (2006).
  • Moreau M, Neveu M, Stéphan S et al. Enhancing cell longevity for cosmetic application: a complementary approach. J. Drugs Dermatol.6(Suppl. 6), S14–S18 (2007).

Reprints and Corporate Permissions

Please note: Selecting permissions does not provide access to the full text of the article, please see our help page How do I view content?

To request a reprint or corporate permissions for this article, please click on the relevant link below:

Academic Permissions

Please note: Selecting permissions does not provide access to the full text of the article, please see our help page How do I view content?

Obtain permissions instantly via Rightslink by clicking on the button below:

If you are unable to obtain permissions via Rightslink, please complete and submit this Permissions form. For more information, please visit our Permissions help page.