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Renaissance of Marketing and Management in Fashion

Is artification perceived by consumers of luxury products? The research relevance of a customer-based brand equity model

顾客能否感知奢侈品中的艺术化?基于顾客的资产价值模型的相关性调查

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Pages 223-236 | Received 21 May 2017, Accepted 09 Apr 2018, Published online: 12 Jun 2018
 

ABSTRACT

This article presents an experiment that tests the capacity of consumers to recognize an artification effect on luxury brands. From a managerial viewpoint, artification is an umbrella term that covers extensive art-based strategies. Luxury brands have been especially prone to using art strategies to address the issue of commodification resulting from high production volumes and so restore perceptions of rarity and exclusiveness. The main hypothesis of this research is that artification favorably alters perceptions of rarity in luxury products and also leads to a series of positive associations at the level of the brand. Through the customer-based brand equity (CBBE) scale, the four main dimensions of brand equity from a consumer perspective (Awareness, Image, Quality, Loyalty) have been analyzed. We randomly show consumers standard Louis Vuitton (LV) luxury items, and items resulting from the collaboration between LV and artist Yayoi Kusama. Frequency of distribution, analysis of variance (ANOVA) and multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA) confirmed our hypothesis concerning both the Awareness and Image dimensions. No changes were observed at the Quality and Loyalty levels. This result opens up to further analysis on artification’s impact on brand equity, giving special attention to Brand Image, such an important and complex dimension of CBBE.

本论文介绍了一项测试顾客/观察者感知及认识为奢侈品牟利的艺术化过程的能力的实验。艺术化界定了长时间以来一系列社会和文化进程的运作,从多方面,与挑战公众普遍接受的艺术的定义标准的各合法机构间相互影响。它起初是审美学以及艺术社会学范畴内的概念,后来又转移到管理学中。从管理学的角度看,艺术化是一个总括的术语,包含广泛的艺术本位策略。艺术化不仅影响了奢侈品行业,奢侈品牌也因此尤其乐于使用艺术策略解决高产量及近期产业结构变化带来的商业化问题。传统奢侈品公司从家族企业转型为大型金融集团,奢侈品牌需要满足全球化带来的不断增长的销量,这都导致了近期的产业机构变化。奢侈品专家认为行业中的结构转型影响了实际客户和潜在客户对稀少性和排他性的觉察力。这导致了诉诸于艺术本位策略形成与艺术世界形成正相关,从而恢复对稀少性和排他性的觉察力。

直至今日,艺术性注入,即观察者/顾客将艺术中暗含的正向价值转移到奢侈品中的能力,一直对奢侈品产生外溢效应。本论文超越了艺术注入的概念,将艺术化作为更宽泛的社会变革的基础,影响文化以及与艺术及品牌相关的赞助、慈善和艺术家协作的手段。艺术与社会关系的长期改变中产生了这些艺术到奢侈品的接触点。传统的艺术相关的价值不再决定层次高低,及区分现代艺术中的普通商品和艺术品,这极其明显地挑战了顾客/观察者对现在直接关联品牌的现代艺术的觉察力。作为合法艺术代理商,它们可能会积极地挑战顾客/观察者对奢侈品牌的感知。此调查的主要假设为,艺术化提升了消费者对奢侈品稀有性的觉察力,并在整个奢侈品层次上引出了一系列积极联想。本论文旨在观察运用视觉艺术的艺术化策略是否能被奢侈品的顾客/观察者们感知并重视。通过基于顾客的资产价值(即CBBE)从顾客角度分析品牌价值的四个主要维度(意识、形象、质量、忠诚)。所分析品牌为路易·威登(即LV),该品牌已长期运用艺术化策略。选择该品牌也是因为它在世界上受到极高认可,以及近期与当代著名艺术家联袂打造了大量的系列时装,并以赞助、艺术展基金和艺术家之间线上线下的交流活动作为补充。本论文涉及到路易·威登和日本当代艺术家草间弥生在近期的合作。在本实验中,共有880名法国当地顾客通过基于价值测量尺度的调查问卷参与实验。根据两个不同条件随机分为两组,一组展示路易·威登的传统标识、图案和包(对照组),另一组展示由草间弥生改良的路易·威登标识、图案和包(实验组)。最终,825名调查对象问卷有效,其中对照组413人,实验组412人。两组男性和女性年龄分布在18岁至32岁间。调查对象的教育背景不同,有学生也有上班族,并且全部为法语母语人士。调查对象为奢侈品的实际顾客或者潜在顾客,因为他们被明确地询问对于购买奢侈品的兴趣和可能购买的奢侈品品牌。年龄较小的调查对象尤其受到关注,因为对于这部分顾客,是因为奢侈品牌通过与著名现代艺术家合作完成并在各大现代艺术馆里展出已广成谈资的新品和五颜六色的系列时装而吸引其注意的。

通过多元数据分析法进行数据分析。假设以类比或区分对照组和实验组为导向。假设奢侈品牌意识不会随艺术化递减;艺术化可以鼓励顾客参与到艺术世界中;品牌形象、品牌忠诚度以及品牌质量会被艺术化影响。本实验显示艺术化在顾客中有可见效应。分布频率、方差分析(ANOVA)以及多元方差分析(MANOVA)证明了对于意识和形象两个维度的假设正确。在质量和忠诚度层面未发现变化。该结果引发了艺术化对于品牌资产影响的深入分析,并尤其注意品牌形象这一在基于顾客的品牌资产模型中十分重要和复杂的维度。本实验充满对于当今奢侈品牌颇具价值的分析。它们的策略在于提高顾客对于艺术以及它们在奢侈品牌中顶级地位的意识。更多的人群仍十分关注时尚界永不停歇地更新出新设计,感受到艺术的人们意识到艺术家们的存在,并将品牌与艺术世界联系到一起。对于奢侈品的管理人员,须明白不仅是路易·威登,像卡地亚、普拉达或者古驰等奢侈品牌也运用类似于注入艺术等策略已久。他们以合法的艺术代理人的角色,使用不同的接触点连接艺术世界,从消费者的角度将艺术化转化为品牌资产的利益。

Acknowledgments

The authors gratefully acknowledge the suggestions and comments of reviewers and participants to the Gamma Conference in Vienna where the preliminary ideas and findings of this work were also presented.

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the authors.

Additional information

Funding

The present research assembles the technical and financial support of Sorbonne INSEAD Behavioral Lab and Ecole Doctorale IV, Paris Sorbonne.

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