Effect of cultural appropriation on the cultural garment weaving industry: the case of weavers in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Figures & data

Figure 1. Ethiopian cultural fabrics (before they get tailored into a dress and shawls).

Figure 2. Ethiopian cultural Netelas (shawls).

Figure 3. Ethiopian cultural Gabi.

Figure 4. Ethiopian cultural coffee dress.

Figure 5. Ethiopian cultural dress.

Figure 6. Conceptual framework of the study. Source: Developed by the researchers based on literature review (2022).

Table 1. The reliability test of the items.

No	Indicator	Cronbach alpha	No. of items
1.	CA	0.607	4
2	Weavers’ reaction	0.628	5
3	Effect of CA	0.746	6
1	Users’ perception about authentic cultural clothes	0.740	9
2	Users’ perception about imitations of cultural clothes	0.645	8

Source: own analysis based on pilot test (2022).

Table 2. The manner of CA.

No	Cultural appropriators	Response category
		DA		SA		AG		Mean	S. D
		F	%	F	%	F	%
1	Gained prior informed consent of the weavers	220	94	6	3	9	3	1.1	0.41
2	Give formal recognition to Ethiopian weavers	227	97	8	3	0	0	1.0	0.18
3	Have paid compensation to weavers	225	96	10	4	0	0	1.1	0.44
4	CA was done due to admiration and respect  for the designs	196	83	17	7	22	10	1.3	0.62
5	Cultural appropriators committed the act  innocently	205	87	15	6	15	7	1.2	0.55

Source: Field survey (2022). DA: disagree; SA: slightly agree; AG: agree.

Table 3. Reaction of weavers to appropriation of the cultural designs.

No	What makes weavers disappointed with the act of CA? I feel irritated	Response category
		DA		SA		AG		Mean	S. D
		F	%	F	%	F	%
1	When I see the imitated designs at markets	20	8.5	40	17	175	75	2.7	0.63
2	When I see people wearing imitated cultural clothes during holidays	17	7	60	26	158	67	2.6	0.62
3	Because the designs are cultural heritages	16	6	32	14	187	80	2.7	0.58
4	Because the designs have religious contents	13	6	48	20	174	74	2.7	0.57
5	Because the designs are sources of my income	0	0	12	5	223	95	2.8	0.59

Source: Field survey (2022). DA: disagree; SA: slightly agree; AG: agree

Table 4. The effect of CA on the AUCCS.

No	Indicator	Response category
		DA		SA		AG		Mean	S. D
		F	%	F	%	F	%
1	The act of CA has reduced weavers’ income	14	6	28	12	193	82	2.8	0.55
2	The act of CA has created unfair competition in the market	14	6	44	19	177	75	2.7	0.58
3	The act of CA has resulted in cultural identity distortion	14	6	20	8.5	201	85.5	2.8	0.53
4	The forged designs have distorted the cultural meaning embedded within the original designs	18	8	30	12	187	80	2.7	0.60
5	The appropriators have ignored the cultural values embedded within the original designs	10	4	36	15	189	81	2.8	0.52
6	Complexity of the cultural designs make appropriators come up with low quality products	15	6	19	8	201	85	2.8	0.54

Source: Field survey (2022). DA: disagree; SA: slightly agree; AG: agree

Table 5. Correlation analysis between overall CA, income and overall authenticity.

Overall CA	Pearson correlation	Overall CA	Overall income
		1	−0.299**
	Sig. (2-tailed)		0.000
	N	235	235
Overall income	Pearson correlation	−0.299**	1
	Sig. (2-tailed)	0.000
	N	235	235
Overall CA	Pearson correlation	Overall CA	Overall authenticity
		1	−0.319**
	Sig. (2-tailed)		0.000
	N	235	235
Overall authenticity	Pearson correlation	−0.319**	1
	Sig. (2-tailed)	0.000
	N	235	235

** Correlation is significant at the 0.05 level (2-tailed).

Table 6. Effect of CA on overall income and overall authenticity.

Multiple R = 0.299 R2 = 0.085 Multiple R = 0.319 R2 = 0.098
ANOVA table
	Sum of squares	df	Mean square	F	Sig.
Regression	3.413	1	3.413	22.870	0.000a
Residual	34.774	233	0.149
Total	38.187	234
Regression	2.210	1	2.210	26.359	0.000b
Residual	19.531	233	0.084
Total	21.740	234
Variables in the equation
Variables	B	Std. error	Beta	t	Sig.
Constant
Overall INC	−0.367	0.077	−0.299	−4.782	0.000
Overall AUT	−0.295	0.058	−0.319	−5.134	0.000

Predictors: (Constant), overall CA.

Dependent variable: Overall income.

Dependent variable: Overall authenticity.

Table 7. Results of hypothesis testing.

No	Hypothesis	Result	Decision
1	CA has statistically significant effect on depletion of authenticity of the cultural clothes.	R2 = 0.085; p = 0.000	Accepted
2	CA has statistically significant effect on reducing the level of income of weavers of the AUCCs.	R2 = 0.098; p = 0.000	Accepted

Source: Researchers’ analysis, using SPSS (2022).

Table 8. Users’ perception toward authentic and imitated cultural clothes.

Dimensions	# Of items	Response category
		DA		SA		AG		Average mean	S.D
		F	%	F	%	F	%
Sentiment toward AUCCs	5	19	11	31	18	122	71	2.6	0.63
Difference between AUCC and IMCC	3	23	13	21	12	128	74	2.6	0.69
Timeliness and nature	5	75	44	33	19	64	37	1.9	0.88
Availability	4	27	15	33	19	100	65	2.7	0.77

Source: Own calculation using field data (2022).