Effect of cultural appropriation on the cultural garment weaving industry: the case of weavers in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

References

• Abiyot, M. (2020). Revitalizing intellectual property right protection for traditional knowledge and cultural expression in Ethiopia: A lesson from Kenya. Oromia Law Journal, 10(1). Retrieved on February 21, 2022, from https://www.ajol.info/index.php/olj/article/view/211224
   Google Scholar
• Alhayat, T. G., TursucularO, F., Eren, R., & Ulcay, Y. (2018). The art of hand weaving textiles and crafting on socio-cultural values in Ethiopian (review). International Journal of Advanced Multidisciplinary Research, 5(12), 1–25. https://doi.org/10.22192/ijamr.2018.05.12.006Accessed on February 25/2020.
   Google Scholar
• Asri, A. P. B. (2018). Legal protection of traditional cultural expression as a regional asset in Yogyakarta. Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, Proceedings of the 1st International Conference on Indonesian Legal Studies (ICILS 2018) (Vol. 192). AtlantisPress. http://dx.doi.org/10.2991/icils-18.2018.28. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/328310991_ Legal_Protection_of_Traditional_Cultural_Expression_as_a_Regional_Asset_in_Yogyakarta
   Google Scholar
• Belete, W. (2018). Patterns of innovation and knowledge in two Ethiopian informal-sector clusters: A study of the ShiroMeda handloom-weavers and Merkato shoemakers. The African Journal of Information and Communication (AJIC), 22, 83–109. https://doi.org/10.23962/10539/26170
   Google Scholar
• Biruk, F. A., & Dereje, B. S. (2021). Selected indigenous Ethiopian traditional weaving designs for beauty and diversity of Ethiopian people. Textile, 19(4), 386–392. https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2021.1922971
   Google Scholar
• Bryman, A. (2012). Social research methods (4th ed.). Oxford University Press.
   Google Scholar
• Campion, M. J., Chattaraman, V., & Lennon, S. J. (2014). How the world loved the swastika - until Hitler stole it. BBC News Magazine. Ethnic identity, consumption of cultural apparel, and self-perceptions of ethnic consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 12(4), 518–531. https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020810906164
   Google Scholar
• Cohen, J. (1988). Statistical power analysis for the behavioural sciences (2nd ed.). Lawrence Erlbaum Associates.
   Google Scholar
• Constitution of the Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia. Proclamation No. 1/1995. NegaritGazzet. 1st year, No. Addis Ababa.
   Google Scholar
• Cox, C., & Jenkins, J. (2005). Between the seams, A fertile commons: An overview of the relationship between fashion and intellectual property. The Norman Lear Center.
   Google Scholar
• Creswell, J. W. (2009). Research design: Qualitative, quantitative, and mixed methods approach (3rd ed.). Sage Publications.
   Google Scholar
• Debeli, D. K., Woldegeorgis, A. G., & Abate, M. T. (2023). Education and investment opportunities in the textile sector in Ethiopia. An overview. In X. Yan, L. Chen, & H. Memon (Eds.), Quality education and international partnership for textile and fashion: Hidden Potentials of East Africa (pp. 139–154). Springer Nature Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-99-1320-6_7
   Google Scholar
• Disele, P. L. P., Tyler, J. D., & Power, J. E. (2011). Conserving and sustaining culture through traditional dress. http://eprints.hud.ac.uk/id/eprint/13821/1/Power07_-_OSSREA_-_JSDA_Disele_published_copy_2011.pdf.
   Google Scholar
• Eickelpasch, A., Lejpras, A., & Stephan, A. (2010). Locational and internal sources of firm competitive advantage: Applying Porter’s diamond model at the firm level. https://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:552194/FULLTEXT01.pdf
   Google Scholar
• Eze, S. C., & Bello, B. A. O. (2016). Factors influencing consumers buying behaviour within the clothing industry. British Journal of Marketing Studies, 7(4), 63–81. https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/papers.cfm?abstract_id=3856707 https://doi.org/10.37745/bjms.vol4.no7.P63-81.2016
   Google Scholar
• Field, A. (2009). Discovering statistics using SPSS (3rd ed.). Sage Publications.
   Google Scholar
• Fraenkel, J. R., & Wallen, N. E. (2005). How to design and evaluate research in education (6th ed.). McGraw-Hill.
   Google Scholar
• Fredriksson, M. (2019). Between intellectual and cultural property: Myths of authorship and common heritage in the protection of traditional cultural expressions. Cultural Analysis, 17(1), 1–24. https://www.ocf.berkeley.edu/∼culturalanalysis/volume17/pdf/Fredriksson.pdf
   Google Scholar
• Gibson, J. W. (1998). TIBEB, art of the weaver in Addis Ababa. Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. Retrieved on 19/03/2022, from https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1167&context=tsaconf
   Google Scholar
• Gray, D. E. (2004). Doing research in the real world. Sagepublications.Great Britain.
   Google Scholar
• Hardin G. (1968). The Tragedy of the Commons. American Association for the Advancement of Science Stable. http://www.jstor.org/stable/1724745. Accessed on March/2020.
   Google Scholar
• Hall, J. (2015). Re-fashioning Kimono: How to make “traditional’ clothes for post-modern Japan. New voices in Japanese studies, Vol. seven. New Voices in Japanese Studies, 7, 59–84. https://doi.org/10.21159/nvjs.07.04
   Google Scholar
• Harms, L. T. C. (2018). A case book on the enforcement of intellectual property rights ( 4th ed.). WIPO. https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_791_2018.pdf.Accessed on March/2020.
   Google Scholar
• Heyd, T. (2011). Rock art aesthetics and cultural appropriation. The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, 61(1), 37–46. https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/1559111.pdf. https://doi.org/10.1111/1540-6245.00090
   Google Scholar
• Islam, F., Rahman, M., & Hossain, A. (2014). Influence of factors on demale consumers’ fashion apparel buying behavior in Bangladesh. Global Journal of Management and Business Research: E Marketing, 14(8). https://www.academia.edu/19878313/Influence_of_Factors_on_Female_Consumers_Fashion_Apparel_Buying_Behavior_in_Bangladesh
   Google Scholar
• Karjala, D. S., & Paterson, K. R. (2017). The case against property rights in old intangible indigenous cultural property. Northwestern Journal of Technology and Intellectual Property, 2. https://scholarlycommons.law.northwestern.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1277&context=njtip
   Google Scholar
• Kothari, C. R. (2004). Research methodology: Methods and techniques. New Age International.
   Google Scholar
• Li, W., Ahmad, A., & Tham, J. (2023). Cultural industry competitiveness based on the diamond model: Literature review. International Journal of Multidisciplinary Research and Publications. (IJMRAP), 5(8), 5–12. https://ijmrap.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/IJMRAP-V5N7P122Y23.pdf
   Google Scholar
• Mathiszig, L. (2015). The dorze weavers of Ethiopia. Cloth and Culture, 12(2), 180–187. Retrieved on 19/03/2022, from https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/175303714x14023922798101?journalCode=rftx20
   Google Scholar
• Matthes, E. H, Department of Philosophy, Florida State University. (2016). Cultural appropriation without cultural essentialism? Social Theory and Practice, 42(2), 343–366. https://www.jstor.org/stable/24871347 https://doi.org/10.5840/soctheorpract201642219
   Google Scholar
• Memon, H., Ranathunga, G. M., Karunaratne, V. M., Wijayapala, S., & Niles, N. (2022). Sustainable textiles in the past “wisdom of the past: Inherited weaving techniques are the pillars of sustainability in the handloom textile sector of Sri Lanka. Sustainability, 14(15), 9439. https://doi.org/10.3390/su14159439
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Moody, O. (2019). Protecting TK and TCEs. Conference Report, Toronto, Canada, March 2019. The Centre for International Governance Innovation. https://mobile.eduq.info/xmlui/bitstream/handle/11515/37711/moody-protecting-traditional-knowledge-traditional-cultral-expressions-cigi-2019.pdf?sequence=2&isAllowed=y.
   Google Scholar
• Ogbonnaya, O. K., & Ogwo, O. E. (2016). An analysis of factors influencing consumers’ preference for foreign textile materials in Southeast Zone of Nigeria–part A. The International Journal of Business and Management, 4(7), 341–352. https://www.internationaljournalcorner.com/index.php/theijbm/article/view/126753/87645
   Google Scholar
• Pallant, J. (2011). SPSS survival mannual: A step by step guide to data analysis using SPSS (4th ed.). Allen and Unwin.
   Google Scholar
• Porter, M. E. (1990). The competitive advantage of nations. The Free Press. https://economie.ens.psl.eu/IMG/pdf/porter_1990 the competitive advantage of nations. pdf
   Google Scholar
• Rajagopal. (2011). Consumer culture and purchase intentions toward fashion apparel in Mexico.Journal of Database Marketing & Customer Strategy Management, 18(4), 286–307. https://doi.org/10.1057/dbm.2011.33
   Google Scholar
• Rani, P. (2014). Factors influencing consumer behavior. International Journal of Current Research and Review, 2(9), 52–61. http://www.ijcrar.com/vol-2-9/Pinki%20Rani.pdf recordings under New Zealand copyright law.
   Google Scholar
• Rogers, R. A. (2006). From cultural exchange to transculturation: A review and reconceptualization of cultural appropriation. Communication Theory, 16(4), 474–503. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1111/j.1468-2885.2006.00277.x https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2885.2006.00277.x
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Schein, E. H. (2004). Organizational culture and leadership (3rd ed.). Jossy-Bass.
   Google Scholar
• Schuler, L. (2013). Modern age protection: Protecting Indigenous knowledge through intellectual property law. Michigan State International Law Review, 21(3), 752–777. https://digitalcommons.law.msu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1210&context=ilr
   Google Scholar
• Shand, P. (2002). Scenes from the colonial catwalk: Cultural appropriation, intellectual property rights, and fashion. Cultural Analysis, 3, 47–88. https://is.muni.cz/el/fss/podzim2017/SOC603/um/Scenes_from_the_Colonial_Catwalk.pdf
   Google Scholar
• Swakopmund Protocol on Protection of TK and Expressions of Folklore within framework of ARIPO. (2010). Swakopmund protocol. adopted on 9 August https://www.ceja.ch/images/CEJA/DOCS/Bibliotheque/Legislation/Africaine/Textes%20Communautaires/BC/BC6.pdf
   Google Scholar
• Tan, D. M. (2009). Ethnic Appropriation in fashion: A dialogue or an invasion? thttps://www.academia.edu/11383721/Ethnic Appropriation in Fashion a dialogue or an invasion, Accessed on March/2020.
   Google Scholar
• Tabachnick, B. G., & Fidell, L. S. (2007). Using multivariate statistics. Pearson Education.
   Google Scholar
• UN. (2007). United nations declaration on the rights of indigenous peoples. https://www.un.org/development/desa/indigenouspeoples/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2019/01/UNDRIP_E_web.pdf
   Google Scholar
• Vézina, B. (2019). Curbing cultural appropriation in the fashion industry. Center for International Governance and Innovation (CIGI) Papers No. 213. https://www.cigionline.org/sites/default/files/documents/paper%20no.213.pdf.Accessed on February/2020.
   Google Scholar
• Yan, X., Chen, L., & Memon, H. (2023). Analysis of the current situation and prospects for China-East Africa Higher Education Cooperation. In X. Yan, L. Chen, & H. Memon (Eds.), Quality education and international partnership for textile and fashion: Hidden Potentials of East Africa (pp. 1–14). Springer Nature Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-99-1320-6_1
   Google Scholar
• Yin, X., Wang, H., Xia, Q., & Gu, Q. (2019). How social interaction affects purchase intention in social commerce: A cultural perspective. Sustainability, 11(8), 2423. https://www.mdpi.com/journal/sustainability, in June 3/2020. https://doi.org/10.3390/su11082423
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Young, J. O. (2000). The ethics of cultural appropriation. Dalhousie Review, 80(3), 301–316. https://dalspace.library.dal.ca/handle/10222/63438.Accessed on March 2020.
   Google Scholar
• Young, J. O. (2005). Profound offense and cultural appropriation. The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, 63(2), 135–146. https://www.jstor.org/stable/3700467, Accessed on: 18-03-2020. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0021-8529.2005.00190.x
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Young, O. J. (2006). Art, authenticity, and appropriation. Frontiers of Philosophy in China, 1(3), 455–476. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11466-006-0019-2
   Google Scholar
• Yu, P. K. (2012). Analysis of intellectual property issues. The WIPO Journal, 4(1). https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/intproperty/wipo_journal/wipo_journal_4_1.pdf
   Google Scholar
• Zhao, J. (2018). Native design in modern fashion: The transformations of native American flower beadwork. Inquiries Journal, 10(03). http://www.pimatisiwin.com/uploads/1399918655.pdf.Accessed on March 2020.
   Google Scholar