1,538
Views
3
CrossRef citations to date
0
Altmetric
Articles

Academics’ dress: gender and aesthetic labour in the Australian university

ORCID Icon
Pages 767-780 | Received 19 Aug 2019, Accepted 01 May 2020, Published online: 11 Jun 2020

References

  • Adkins, L., & Lury, C. (Eds.). (2012). Measure and value. Malden: Wiley-Blackwell.
  • Ahmed, S. (2017). Living a feminist life. Durham: Duke University Press.
  • Alvesson, M. (2002). Understanding organizational culture. London: Sage.
  • Archer, L. (2008). Younger academics’ constructions of ‘authenticity’, ‘success’ and professional identity. Studies in Higher Education, 33(4), 385–403. doi: 10.1080/03075070802211729
  • Bagihole, B., & White, K. (Eds.). (2013). Generation and gender in academia. New York: Palgrave Macmillan.
  • Ball, S. (2015). Living the neoliberal university. European Journal of Education, 50(3), 258–261. doi: 10.1111/ejed.12132
  • Bartlett, A. (2005). ‘She seems nice’: Teaching evaluations and gender trouble. Feminist Teacher, 15(3), 195–202.
  • Bell, V. (Ed.). (1999). Performativity and belonging. London: Sage Publications, Palgrave Macmillan.
  • Benschop, Y., & Brouns, M. (2003). Crumbling ivory towers: Academic organizing and its gender effects. Gender, Work & Organization, 10(2), 194–212. doi: 10.1111/1468-0432.t01-1-00011
  • Berlant, L. (2011). Cruel optimism. Durham: Duke University Press.
  • Blackmore, J. (2013). A feminist critical perspective on educational leadership. International Journal of Leadership in Education, 16(2), 139–154. doi: 10.1080/13603124.2012.754057
  • Blaise, M., Knight, L., & Gray, E. (2019). Punk feminism and #FEAS: A low brow protest of academic sexism. In G. Crimmins (Ed.), Strategies for resisting sexism in the academy: Higher education, gender and intersectionality (pp. 269–286). London: Palgrave.
  • Bourdieu, P. (1984). Distinction: A social critique of the judgment of taste. London: Routledge.
  • Breeze, M., Taylor, Y., & Costa, C. (2019). Introduction: Time and space in the neoliberal university. In M. Breeze, Y. Taylor, & C. Costa (Eds.), Time and space in the neoliberal university: Futures and fractures in higher education (pp. 1–14). London: Palgrave.
  • Brown, W. (2015). Undoing the demos : neoliberalism's stealth revolution (First Edition.). Zone Books.
  • Butler, J. (1990). Gender trouble. New York: Routledge.
  • Butler, J. (2004). Precarious Life: The powers of mourning and violence. London: Verso.
  • Chatelain, A. M. (2015). The effect of academics’ dress and gender on student perceptions of instructor approachability and likeability. Journal of Higher Education Policy and Management, 37(4), 413–423. doi: 10.1080/1360080X.2015.1056598
  • Clandinin, D. J., & Connelly, F. M. (2000). Narrative inquiry: Experience and story in qualitative research. San Francisco, CA: Jossey-Bass.
  • Connell, R. W. (1987). Gender and power: Society, the person and sexual politics. Sydney: Allen & Unwin.
  • Dahl, D. B. (2014). “Making up” workers in an inclusive organisation: Inclusion and diversity in Danish parking patrol. Equality, Diversity and Inclusion, 33(3), 249–260. doi: 10.1108/EDI-11-2013-0093
  • Dellinger, K., & Williams, C. L. (1997). Makeup at work: Negotiating appearance rules in the workplace. Gender and Society, 11(2), 151–177. doi: 10.1177/089124397011002002
  • Dutton, K. R. (1983). Academic dress: A brief guide to its origins and development. Newcastle: Australian Federation of University Women (Hunter Valley Branch): Convocation of the University of Newcastle.
  • Entwistle, J. (2000). The fashioned body : fashion, dress and modern social theory. Polity Press.
  • Entwistle, J., & Wissinger, E. (2006). Keeping up appearances: Aesthetic labour in the fashion modelling industries in London and New York. The Sociological Review, 54(4), 774–794. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-954X.2006.00671.x
  • Essel, O. Q., & Kemevor, A. K. (2016). Aesthetical tastes of academical and traditional costumes in academic processions. Fashion and Textiles, 3, 1. doi: 10.1186/s40691-015-0053-6
  • Eveline, J. (2004). Ivory basement leadership: Power and invisibility in the changing university. Crawley: University of Western Australia Press.
  • Fan, Y., Shepherd, L. J., Slavich, E., Waters, D., Stone, M., & Abel, R. (2019). Gender and cultural bias in student evaluations: Why representation matters. PLoS ONE, 14(2): e0209749. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0209749
  • Fitzgerald, T. (2014). Women leaders in higher education: Shattering myths. Oxon: Routledge.
  • Gatens, M. (1996). Imaginary bodies: Ethics, power and corporeality. London: Routledge.
  • Genovese, H. (2017, September 28). Cute outfits and the academic career. The Chronicle of Higher Education. Retrieved from https://www.chronicle.com/article/Cute-Outfitsthe-Academic/241309
  • Hancock, P., & Tyler, M. (2007). Un/doing gender and the aesthetics of organizational performance. Gender, Work and Organization, 14(6), 512–533. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-0432.2007.00369.x
  • Harmes, M. K., Riddle, S., & Danaher, P. A. (2017). Partaking of pleasure: Regenerating the working lives of university academics. In S. Riddle, M. K. Harmes, & P. A. Danaher (Eds.), Producing pleasure in the contemporary university (pp. 1–12). London: Sense.
  • Hegarty, S. (2019). The double standards women face at work every day. Retrieved from https://www.abc.net.au/life/double-standards-for-womens-appearance-at-work/11365492
  • Hernández-Julián, R., & Peters, C. (2018). Physical appearance and peer effects in academic performance. Applied Economics Letters, 25(13), 887–890. doi: 10.1080/13504851.2017.1380282
  • Hill Collins, P., & Bilge, S. (2016). Intersectionality. Cambridge: Polity Press.
  • Hochschild, A. R. (1983). The managed heart: Commercialisation of human feeling. Berkley: University of California Press.
  • Höpfl, H. (2008). Aesthetics and management, the turn to aesthetics: An interdisciplinary exchange of ideas in applied and philosophical aesthetics. In C. Palmer, & D. Torevel (Eds.), The turn to aesthetics: An interdisciplinary exchange of ideas in applied and philosophical aesthetics (pp. 17–27). Liverpool: Liverpool Hope University Press.
  • Iosefo, F. (2016). Third spaces: Sites of resistance in higher education? Higher Education Research & Development, 35(1), 189–192. doi: 10.1080/07294360.2016.1133273
  • Kelly, F. (2018). The lecturers new clothes: An academic life, in textiles. In A. L. Black, & S. Garvis (Eds.), Lived experiences of women in academia: Metaphors, manifestos and memoir (pp. 23–31). London: Routledge.
  • Lavin, A. M., Davies, T. L., & Carr, D. L. (2010). The impact of instructor attire on student perceptions of faculty credibility and their own resultant behavior. American Journal of Business Education, 3(6), 51–62.
  • Lightstone, K., Francis, R., & Kocum, L. (2011). University style of dress and students’ perception of instructor credibility. International Journal of Business and Social Science, 2(15), 15–22.
  • Lipton, B. (2017). Writing through the labyrinth: Using l’ecriture feminine in leadership studies. Leadership, 12(1), 64–80. doi: 10.1177/1742715015619969
  • Lipton, B. (2020). Academic women in neoliberal times. London: Palgrave.
  • Mears, A. (2014). Aesthetic labour for the sociologies of work, gender, and beauty. Sociology Compass, 8(12), 1330–1343. doi: 10.1111/soc4.12211
  • Moore, M., & Williams, G. (2014). No jacket required: Academic women and the problem of the blazer. Fashion, Style & Popular Culture, 1(3), 359–376. doi: 10.1386/fspc.1.3.359_1
  • Morley, L. (1999). Organising feminisms: The micropolitics of the academy. Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan.
  • Nickson, D., Warhurst, C., & Dutton, E. (2004). Aesthetic labour and the policy-making agenda: Time for a reappraisal of skills? SKOPE Research Paper No.48. Oxford: Centre on Skills, Knowledge and Organisational Performance (SKOPE).
  • O'Connor, P. (2000). Resistance amongst faculty women in academia. Higher Education in Europe, 25(2), 213–219. doi: 10.1080/713669252
  • Peluchette, J. V., Karl, K., & Rust, K. (2006). Dressing to impress: Beliefs and attitudes regarding workplace attire. Journal of Business and Psychology, 21(1), 45–63. doi: 10.1007/s10869-005-9022-1
  • Petersson McIntyre, M. (2014). Commodifying passion. Journal of Cultural Economy, 7(1), 79–94. doi: 10.1080/17530350.2013.851029
  • Pettinger, L. (2004). Brand culture and branded workers: Service work and aesthetic labour in fashion retail. Consumption, Markets & Culture, 7(2), 165. doi: 10.1080/1025386042000246214
  • Pettinger, L. (2005). Gendered work meets gendered goods: Selling and service in clothing retail. Gender, Work and Organization, 12(5), 460–478. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-0432.2005.00284.x
  • Puwar, N. (2004). Space invaders: Race, gender and bodies out of place. Oxford: Berg.
  • Samek, A. A., & Donofrio, T. A. (2013). ‘Academic drag’ and the performance of the critical personae: An exchange on sexuality, politics, and identity in the academy. Women's Studies in Communication, 36(1), 28–55. doi: 10.1080/07491409.2012.754388
  • Sebastian, R. J., & Bristow, D. (2008). Formal or informal? The impact of style of dress and forms of address on business students’ perceptions of professors. Journal of Education for Business, 83(4), 196–201. doi: 10.3200/JOEB.83.4.196-201
  • Sinclair, A. (2004). Journey around leadership. Discourse: Studies in the Cultural Politics of Education, 25(1), 7–19.
  • Skeggs, B. (2004). Class, self, culture. Routledge.
  • Stanley, L. (1997). Knowing feminisms. London: Sage.
  • Stavrakopoulou, F. (2014, October 26). Female academics: Don't power dress, forget heels – and no flowing hair allowed. The Guardian. Retrieved from https://www.theguardian.com/higher-education-network/blog/2014/oct/26/-sp-female-academics-dont-power-dress-forget-heels-and-no-flowing-hair-allowed
  • Taylor, C. A. (2013). Objects, bodies and space: Gender and embodied practices of mattering in the classroom. Gender and Education, 25(6), 688–703. doi: 10.1080/09540253.2013.834864
  • Taylor, C. A. & Lahad, K. (Eds.). (2018). Feeling academic in the neoliberal university: feminist flights, fights and failures. London: Palgrave Macmillan.
  • Thornton, M. (2013). ‘The mirage of merit: reconstituting the ‘ideal academic’’. Australian Feminist Studies, 28(76), 127–143. doi:10.1080/0816469.2013.789584
  • Thwaites, R., & Pressland, A. (Eds.). (2017). Being an early career feminist academic: global perspectives, experiences, and challenges. London: Palgrave Macmillan.
  • Tietje, L., & Cresap, S. (2005). Is lookism unjust? The ethics of aesthetics and public policy implications. The Journal of Libertarian Studies, 19(2), 31–50.
  • Tyler, M., & Taylor, S. (1998). The exchange of aesthetics: Women’s work and ‘the gift’. Gender, Work & Organization, 5(3), 165–171. doi: 10.1111/1468-0432.00054
  • Warhurst, C., & Nickson, D. (2001). Looking good, sounding right: Style counselling in the new economy. London: The Industrial Society.
  • Warhurst, C., & Nickson, D. (2007). A new labour aristocracy? Aesthetic labour and routine interactive service. Work, Employment & Society, 21(4), 785–798. doi: 10.1177/0950017007082887
  • Williams, C. L., & Connell, C. (2012). ‘Looking good and sounding right’: Aesthetic labour and social inequality in the retail industry. Work and Occupations, 37(3), 349–377. doi: 10.1177/0730888410373744
  • Williams, C., & Dellinger, K. (2010). Gender and sexuality in the workplace: Research in the sociology of work v. 20. Emerald Group Publishing Ltd
  • Witz, A., Warhurst, C., & Nickson, D. (2003). The labour of aesthetics and the aesthetic of organization. Organization, 10, 33–54. doi: 10.1177/1350508403010001375

Reprints and Corporate Permissions

Please note: Selecting permissions does not provide access to the full text of the article, please see our help page How do I view content?

To request a reprint or corporate permissions for this article, please click on the relevant link below:

Academic Permissions

Please note: Selecting permissions does not provide access to the full text of the article, please see our help page How do I view content?

Obtain permissions instantly via Rightslink by clicking on the button below:

If you are unable to obtain permissions via Rightslink, please complete and submit this Permissions form. For more information, please visit our Permissions help page.